The symbol was called boteh the Persian word for shrub or cluster of leaves which is visually a combination of a spray of floral elements and a cypress tree. Centuries later the shape was called Buta almond or bud. The buta shape is the national symbol of Azerbaijan to this day, it symbolizes fire and is most commonly seen on their bright intricate woven carpets and rugs.
The buta form in Azerbaijan is related to the Zoroastrian religion that dates back to the first millennium BC. The paisley shape could also be an adaptation of the yin-yang symbol used in ancient Chinese medicine and philosophy. Many different cultures have used the paisley symbol and consider it to represent many objects including a cashew fruit, a mango or a sprouting date palm, an Indian symbol of fertility.
Paisleys can possibly also be traced back to Celtic tradition. I photographed the mirror at a visit to the British Museum, London in April Another example of Celtic artistic creativity is the Wandsworth Shield.
This Iron Age bronze shield which was made in Britain around BC has a curvilinear decoration of 2 birds with feathers which resemble paisley shapes. The names of four forts on Hadrian's Wall are inscribed along the top of the pan. The paisley pattern is beautifully coloured in shades of red, yellow and shades of blue.
The paisley pattern evolved mainly in The Kingdom of Kashmir. During Mughal Emperor Akbar's reign — , shawl-weaving production increased dramatically. Woven paisley shawls were mainly worn by men for ceremonies.
These early shawls did not display the paisley shape as we know it today but a curving flower with leaves and a stem, the roots of which have striking similarities to Chinese calligraphy.
The way in which symbols from different cultures appear in the development of the paisley pattern show how weavers translated artistic influences from imported ceramics, documents, fabrics into their own designs.
The East India Company imported paisley shawls adapted from the Persian word shal from Kashmir and Persia to Europe in large quantities from around The designs were specifically tailored to cater for each regions particular tastes. In Europe the shawls were worn mainly by women not men. The designs might depict exotic scenes of people on elephants riding past palm trees.
For the Middle Eastern customers, the curved geometric paisley shape as we know it today was widely used. This was partly due to the Islamic preference not to depict recognizable natural objects. European customers gradually preferred more complicated patterns on their shawls. Woven pieces of fabric from several looms were joined together to make one shawl.
Joseph Marie Jacquard introduced the punch card system to looms in Lyon in , resulting in the first programmable loom. This and other advances in technology during the C19th slowly reduced the high levels of child labour in the textile industries because machinery became larger and more complicated so was unsuitable for children to operate. Prior to the jacquard loom, a child would sit on top of each loom raising and lowering the heddles.
His invention made weaving 25 times faster with obviously dramatic increases in paisley shawl output. These Indian and Pakistani shawls were brought back from Napoleon's campaigns in countries such as Egypt at the beginning of the c.
There are many portraits of Josephine wearing shawls similar in style and colour to pic. The creamy ecru colour is the natural colour of the goat's fleece. British production of woven shawls began in in Norwich, England but to a greater extent in in the small town of Paisley, Scotland. Roughly equal quantities of imported Kashmiri and home-produced British shawls were bought in Britain in the mid C19th.
The former retained their popularity despite their much higher prices. The main reason being that cashmere is actually hair from a goat and these fine hairs are soft and provide excellent insulation. Cashmere was therefore preferred to sheep's wool which was regarded as much less luxurious. Also the superior Kashmiri looms produced fully reversible fabric with many more colours.
Initially the British shawls were only 2-colour, usually indigo and madder. Due to the huge scale of shawl production in Paisley, Scotland, the pattern was given the name 'paisley'. The name 'paisley' is not an international name for the pattern, it is called palme in France, bota in Netherlands, bootar in India and peizuli in Japan.
The Scottish town was named Paisley as far back as the 7th century. The first church was built on the abbey site in 7th century. An ancient Celtic language was spoken in Britain at this time. The church was given abbey status in Parts of the current abbey date back to William Wallace, the Scottish knight and national hero of Scottish independence was educated in the abbey.
The expansion of the textile industry in the town dates back to the 17th century and is evident with street names which include the words thread, silk, shuttle and cotton.
Paisley is part of Renfrewshire , 1 of 32 Scottish councils; it uses the paisley symbol as it's official logo. Until photography had become more available in the late 19th century, paintings recorded fashion trends.
These paintings are now a valuable resource for mapping stages in the development of paisley patterns and variations in shawl shapes and sizes. Ford Maddox Brown's painting pic. William Holman Hunt's painting The Awakening Conscience - The Tate Britain, London shows the woman wearing a red paisley shawl draped around her middle and tied at the front, probably brought back by the man from an overseas trip.
Paisley patterns, intricate dynamic interlocking shapes in exciting colour combinations appealed to a wide market. Wool and silk blended yarns were used in Britain, as Tibetan goat hair down was not readily available.
A rather unsuccessful attempt was made to rear cashmere goats in Essex, England in A small herd bred from two imported goats from Kazakhstan only produced very small amounts of the underfleece as the British weather wasn't cold enough. The rearing was then abandoned. Paisley designs in Britain were one of the first examples of copyright protection in the creative fields. Developments in printing technology in Europe in C19th enabled factories to mass-produce printed paisley fabrics and cater for the worldwide demand.
This brought about the decline in the demand for woven shawls and by many of the weavers had emigrated to Australia and Canada due to poverty. The dolman pic. The weavers, especially in Paisley, had to listen to merchants who would advise them on possible new markets.
An example of this was supplying paisley ponchos for the South America market. The paisley pattern designs used for the shawls continued to be used as examples of technical visual perfection.
Detailed hand-drawn colour plans on paper from 's and 's were used as visual aids to assist the teaching of design students on a variety of courses at Glasgow School of Art from 's to late 's.
Paisley patterns were still worn in the first half of the 20th century but not as a mainstream trend. A painting from of artist Vanessa Bell in The National Portrait Gallery by Duncan Grant — shows her wearing a red paisley pattern dress.
Noel Coward was often photographed wearing a paisley smoking jacket or dressing gown, very similar to those worn by the stylish detective Sherlock Holmes. Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra were also famous for sporting silk smoking jackets with bold paisley prints when they performed in Las Vegas or attended lavish parties. Frank Sinatra wore paisley ties, including bow ties, frequently in the 's and 's. Images of paisley shawls continued to be used in popular culture.
Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Written by admin. Definition a pattern of different curved shapes in different colours on cloth Origin and usage The word paisley comes from the name of the Scottish town where the patterned fabric was first made in the UK in imitation of items imported from India that carried the design, especially shawls.
Spelling tip of the week — address. You may also like. View all posts. The definition of paisley refers to a pattern of colorful curved comma-shaped designs that is based on a design from India. A paisley pattern or fabric. A town of southwest Scotland west of Glasgow. It was famous as a textile center in the s for its colorful patterned shawls. Designating, of, or having an intricate, multicolored pattern typically of abstract curving figures resembling fat commas, used esp.
Made of cloth having such a pattern. A paisley pattern. A paisley cloth, shawl, necktie, etc. Motif of swirling droplet.
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