The rivets can be removed by using a pair of pliars to pull the center plug down and the rivets pop right out. By the way….. One gallon of coolant and one gallon of distilled water will completey fill the cooling system. Having completed this procedure once, the second time around took less than an hour including reattching the undertray.
The first time took 2. Good luck to you…. Home RSS Twit. Coolant Flush. The other option is to pour in 1 gal of each, then mix a in the empty coolant bottle and pour that in until full Have you been Screwed? Re: Capacity. Drain PLug I did not flush my system, just drained it since my radiator is only 1 year old.
The block drain plug is on the passenger side of the block about in the middle, underneath the exhaust manifold. It is easy to reach from underneath assuming the car is lifted , but probably impossible to get to from above. Last edited by Efthreeoh; at AM.. It is not magical coolant.
The most important part is to make sure you follow the venting procedure, which is a simple process. Do a search on here.
I believe eninty has a DIY on here. How I do it is to remove the undercover, remove one of the blue screws to the radiator, refill, vent, refill, and vent not a typo; when you vent you will need to add more coolant. Eninty has you remove the waterpump hose s which can be a PITA. It is the correct thing to do, but I skip that.
Lieutenant Colonel. Originally Posted by Chriztofor. Originally Posted by Surly Don't lose that! Down to business, with the front wheels up a couple inches for clearance. With the system depressurized and the radiator drain plug removed, the coolant drains quickly.
Pour out some of the full strength coolant to a graduated bottle and then add an equal volume of distilled water. Here I'm using an old coolant bottle I had on hand. Save your empties! By using what I could term the "abridged" version of the coolant flush I managed to remove about 1. While this is decidedly less than the capacity of the system reportedly 2. The best part about this task is that it took me less than an hour, and I wasn't exactly inclined to rush given this was my first time dealing with a BMW cooling system.
I'm not sure what the book labor number is based upon, but my guess is they don't factor in the need to replace the oxygen sensor. And that's a good thing for the techs that work piece-meal, since they'd lose their shirts on this job if they did bother to do it. Because BMW cooling systems are particularly difficult to bleed, check the coolant level via the expansion tank the following day with the engine cold. Add more coolant as needed, but only fill to the line on the expansion tank that says "Kalt" Cold.
Give it another check in a few days.
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